Saturday, 16 December 2017

I ❤ the Lander Pants: A Very Wearable Muslin in Black Cotton Drill


I bought the True Bias Lander Pants pattern as soon as it was released, hoping to make up the shorts in time for my last holiday. This was a bit too ambitious, but I’m glad I’ve had a chance to make them within a couple of months of purchase. Usually it can take me quite a while to get round to it, despite my best intentions!


These are made up of some non-stretch black cotton drill that I made up my vintage Simplicity skirt in a couple of years ago. I didn’t have quite enough so had to shorten the cropped length a little more, and the waistband is actually leftover black stretch denim from my Gingers that’s a decent colour match (which hopefully hasn't affected the fit too much).


Despite being cobbled together with remnants from my stash, I love these, and that sings to the quality of the pattern! I love the high waist, the exposed button fly (my buttons are just plain silver from Prym, and I did manage to snap one when hammering in!), and the flattering transition from close fitting around the lower torso to a looser but structured flow over the legs.

There are (always!) some things I’d tweak next time for fit, although I have been wearing these continually since making them and haven't been bothered too much by my perceived fit issues. As we sewists always like to say, the fit may not be perfect but it's still better than RTW, and they’ve turned out flattering anyway, very easy to wear, and go with so much in my wardrobe.


I made the size 10 at the waist, graded to a 12 over the hips. I had to fold up the pattern in the legs at the lengthen/ shorten line and lose approx 2 inches of length even on the cropped version due to fabric restrictions, so I decided to do a small double-turned hem of ⅜” then ½” (rather than the deep hem of ¼” followed by 3” called for by the pattern). I really like the length I ended up with, but am keen to make a ‘70s style mid-blue full-length pair.


There are a couple of things I could have done better that I’ll pay closer attention to next time:
  • I managed to slightly misalign the tops of the back pockets so they’re a bit wonky. Not sure if this was a cutting or marking error, but as the fabric is such a dark, matte black it’s not really easy to tell (and impossible in these photos, sorry!). Will be more careful next time though!
  • I might make a note to remind myself where to topstitch, as while blindly following instructions to edgestitch I didn’t think to switch up the thread for the pockets, so only the fly, hem and waistband are topstitched.
  • I also slightly misaligned the waistband button (the perils of marking button placement yourself while bending over to do so!), so it’s allowing more gape there than if the buttons were in a straight line, which I think be more sturdy. I do also need to make some fit adjustments there for my belly.
  • You can see little glimpses of the pocket lining on the outline of the pockets on the front leg. I did trim as per the instructions, but I should have made more effort to match up the raw edges so the lining would be pulled to the inside further. Next time I’d be more careful in this step and maybe use a dark rather than contrast lining to be on the safe side!
  • This is personal preference, but the pattern has you put the belt loops on the side seams. I actually think it’s more visually slimming the have the side belt loops tucked a few centimetres back from the side seams so they’re not visible from the front, giving a more streamlined silhouette. I kept them as is for this pair, but next time I’d amend them as per the spacing on the Ginger jeans. 


You may be able to advise me further on this (although I think it’s hard to tell in this black) but the fit adjustments I think I need are:

  • Full belly adjustment (wah).
  • Full seat adjustment.
  • Maybe a swayback too.


I could perhaps have given myself a bit more room in both these areas but adjusting along the generous 1” seam allowance at the sides (or just making a straight size 12 instead of narrowing to a 10 at the waist), but not sure if that would achieve the best results. Anyway, these are not a terrible fit out of the packet, even if I do need to remember to suck my belly in a bit more!

I’d love to make another pair; I really like them in this black drill, but maybe a navy and/ or burgundy pair (like the pattern's official photos) would be nice. And of course the mid-blue pair dreamed up above. What do you think?

I’m on a real trouser-making kick at the moment; I still don’t have fitting nailed, but I’m loving having a decent selection of me-made bottoms in my wardrobe. I’ve already made a pair of Winslows which hopefully I’ll have some free time to catch the light and photograph soon, and I’ve bought supplies to make the Mimi G flares pattern Simplicity 1283 (inspired by Laura Dern’s character’s elegant flares in Big Little Lies, even though she and I are hardly body doubles!).


I’ve just watched Godless too and I want a pair of trousers like the amazing floor-sweeping ones Alice wears, with a buttoned waistband (I like her princess seamed blouses too). Perhaps modifying my Flints and adding a button front to the Elisalex bodice? After a couple of festive drinks I also bought the Marilla Walker Roberts Collection (and the Isca for the lovely shirt variation) on a whim, even though I swore I’d never do the overalls thing, so watch out to see if I make that a reality!

Anyway, exciting trouser plans aside, I’d better crack on with handmade Christmas gifts. I hope your festive making is going well, whether it’s party wear for yourself or gifts for others!

NorseOtter xxx










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